Protect your home from water damage. While you may think of us as simply being heating and air conditioning repairmen, our job spans much larger. If your air conditioning system is located in your attic or on your roof, water damage may be a valid concern. This is because in addition to cooling your home, it is also responsible for dehumidifying the air. Have you ever thought about where the excess moisture goes when it is drained from the system? Overflow can easily damage to your ceiling resulting in the need for costly repairs. In order to prevent this headache, we offer a convenient ceiling saver kit. So how does it work? Our kits come with a special drain pan to catch the excess water, directing it to a drain where it can be properly removed from your home. If the leak is severe and the drain pan becomes clogged, a safety switch will shut off your air conditioning system alerting you that there is a problem and potential leak. At this point you can simply give us a call and we will diagnose the problem to get your system back up and running without incurring a single ounce of water damage.

Make wastewater transfer simple with a condensate pump. Furnaces, air conditioners, and humidifiers create excess condensation and wastewater. Rather than having a tangle of pipes and hoses to remove it, consider having a condensate pump installed. A condensate drain can properly transfer this excess moisture to the proper drain. For more information on 5-2-1 Compressor Saver – Click Here!First and foremost you can have a thorough check of your electrical system. Loose connections release large amounts of wasted energy, which you end up paying for in terms of additional wasted kilowatt hours. Often, A/C units cause unnecessary energy lost. If your unit is older, or seems to take more energy to start, you may want to invest in a hard start kit. When using a hard start kit, less energy will be demanded on the frequent start ups. One of the simplest ways to save money on y our energy bills is by turning your thermostat to 78 degrees in the summer and 68 degrees in the winter.

An even better way to control your homes temperature is by investing in a digital thermostat, and setting a reasonable work schedule. how long to home ac units lastThis will allow your A/C to be turned off during the day, then automatically come on in the evening before you come home from work. how to put ac unit in windowAnother way to ease your energy bills by balancing the electrical load in your home. air conditioner units not windowMost watt hour meters for homes use the higher of the two phases to calculate your electric bill, if the load were in balance you might save as much as 15% off your electrical utility bill. If your average utility bill is $450 per month, that is a savings of $67.50 a month, or $810.00 a year!! The U.S. Government provides this energy calculator.

Want to save money on your energy bill? Click the link below. Air Conditioning can sometimes comprise half of your energy bill. Here are some ways you can save money. Reduce this cost by - 1. Having an annual "tune-up" by a professional A/C technician. 2. Adding a hard start kit to older units. 3. Replace your old, worn out unit! Lighten up your energy bill with the new generations of fluorescent, and light emitting diode (L.E.D.) lamps. Lighting in general only consumes about 10% to 20% of the average household electricity bill. However, If you could reduce that by 75% you would be saving some serious dough! For instance, if your average electric bill was $450.00 per month, and your lighting was 20% of the bill, that means that $90.00 of your bill was solely from lighting. Now reduce that by 75% or $67.50 per month. That's an annual savings of $810.00 Not bad! These lamps are available at home centers, or we can provide and install them for about the cost of what the home centers sell them for.

The 32701 & 32702 motor torque multipliers feature a combination PTC solid state device, and start capacitor in The 32701 is designed for use on PSC  motors and compressors up to 5HP, 277V maximum; and the 32702 is designed for use on PSC motors and compressors up to 10HP 277V maximum. Both units are easily installed by connecting the two leads from the unit to the motor run capacitor terminals.clip, screw, or capacitor A motor capacitor,[1][2] such as a start capacitor or run capacitor (including a dual run capacitor)[2] is an electrical capacitor that alters the current to one or more windings of a single phase AC induction motor to create a rotating magnetic field. There are two common types of motor capacitors, run capacitors and start capacitors. The units of capacitance are labeled in microfarads (µF or uF). Older capacitors may be labeled with the obsolete terms "mfd" or "MFD", which means microfarad. Motor capacitors are used with air conditioners, hot tub/jacuzzi spa pumps, powered gates, large fans or forced-air heat furnaces for example.

[2] A "dual run capacitor" is used in some air conditioner compressor units, to boost both the fan and compressor motors. A typical motor start capacitor, as can be seen by its black color and can shape Start capacitors briefly increase motor starting torque and allow a motor to be cycled on and off rapidly. A start capacitor stays in the circuit long enough to rapidly bring the motor up to a predetermined speed, which is usually about 75% of the full speed, and is then taken out of the circuit, often by a centrifugal switch that releases at that speed. Afterward the motor works more efficiently with a run capacitor. Start capacitors have ratings above 70 µF, with four major voltage classifications: 125 V, 165 V, 250 V, and 330 V. Examples of motor capacitors are: a 35 µF, at 370 V, run capacitor, or an 88–108 µF at 250 V start capacitor. Start capacitors above 20 µF are always non-polarized aluminium electrolytic capacitors [4] with non solid electrolyte and therefore they are only applicable for the short motor starting time.

The motor won't work properly if the centrifugal switch is broken. If the switch is always "open", the start capacitor is not part of the circuit thus preventing startup of the motor. If the switch is always "closed", the start capacitor is always enabled, thus likely destroying the capacitor. If a motor doesn't start, the capacitor is far more likely the problem than the switch. Some single-phase AC electric motors require a "run capacitor" to energize the second-phase winding (auxiliary coil) to create a rotating magnetic field while the motor is running. Run capacitors are designed for continuous duty while the motor is powered, which is why electrolytic capacitors are avoided, and low-loss polymer capacitors are used. Run capacitors are mostly polypropylene film capacitors and are energized the entire time the motor is running.[1] Run capacitors are rated in a range of 1.5 to 100 µF, with voltage classifications of 370 V or 440 V.[1] If a wrong capacitance value is installed, it will cause an uneven magnetic field around the rotor.

This causes the rotor to hesitate at the uneven spots, resulting in irregular rotation, especially under load. This hesitation can cause the motor to become noisy, increase energy consumption, cause performance to drop and the motor to overheat. A dual "run capacitor" supports two electric motors, such as in large air conditioner or heat pump units, with both a fan motor and a compressor motor. It saves space by combining two physical capacitors into one case. The dual capacitor has three terminals labeled "C", "FAN", and "HERM", which stand for the Common, Fan, and HERMetically sealed compressor. Dual capacitors come in a variety of sizes, depending on the capacitance (µF), such as 40 plus 5 µF, and also the voltage. A 440 volt capacitor can be used in place of a 370 volt, but not a 370 in place of a 440 volt.[2] The capacitance must stay the same within 5% of its original value.[2] Round cylinder-shaped dual run capacitors are commonly used for air conditioning, to help in the starting of the compressor and the condenser fan motor.

[2] An oval dual run capacitor could be used instead of a round capacitor, but the mounting strap should be changed to better fit the oval shape. A faulty run capacitor often becomes swollen, with the sides or ends bowed or bulged out further than usual: it can be clear to see that the capacitor has failed because it is swollen or even blown apart causing the capacitor's electrolyte to leak out. Some capacitors are built with a "Pressure Sensitive Interrupter" design that causes them to fail before internal pressures can cause serious injury. One design causes the top of the capacitor to expand and break internal wiring. "Weak Capacitor" - Over many years of use the capacitance of the capacitor drops. As a result the motor may fail to start or run at full power. If a motor is running during a lightning strike on the power grid, the run capacitor might be damaged or weaken by a voltage spike, thus requiring replacement. IEC/EN 60252-1 2001 specifies levels of protection [7] for motor run capacitors