Note: This page relates primarily to desktop computers and the most common causes for the computer to not turn on. More specific troubleshooting steps for a laptop computer is on our page for a laptop computer that is not turning on. Tip: If you have never turned on the computer before, you should check out our page about how to turn on a computer. If you are uncertain if the computer is turning on or not, this can be checked by locating any fans inside the computer or fans that are visible from the outside of the computer. If these fans are spinning, the computer is receiving power and this document may not apply to your issue. Note: If the computer is turning on but is not posting (beeping) or showing any picture on the display, see POST troubleshooting. Verify that the power cord is connected properly to the wall and the back of the computer. If it looks ok, disconnect and reconnect both ends of the power cord to make sure the cable is not loose. If you have a power strip (surge protector) or UPS that turns everything off/on at once, disconnect the computer power from it and connect the cord directly to the wall outlet.

If connecting the computer directly to the wall outlet still does not work verify the outlet works by connecting another electrical device to that same outlet. If any hardware has been recently added to the computer, it is recommended that you temporarily disconnect or remove it to ensure that it's not the cause of your issue.cheap ac wall unit Note: If the computer was working fine before you added the new hardware, and the computer is not beeping but is turning on, see the POST troubleshooting steps.cover for central ac unit Verify that the cable supplying power to your computer is not bad or damaged by using another power cable.how to fix my ac in car Tip: Most monitors use the same power cable and can be swapped for the computer power cable.

Some computer power supplies may have their own power button, like that shown in the picture. Check the back of the computer and make sure there are no additional buttons that have been turned off and are preventing power to the computer. If you are building a computer, or it has never been turned on it may have a defective power supply that is not supplying enough power. Verify your power supply meets the requirements of your motherboard, processor, and video card. If your computer is a laptop or portable computer that utilizes a battery for mobility, it may be causing your issue. As mentioned earlier, each time your computer tries turn on it runs a POST (Power On Self Test) and if any of the hardware components in your computer fail this test the computer will not turn on. If the computer cannot test a component because it has become loose or a cable connected to the device has become loose then it will fail the POST. Note: When inside of a computer make sure you are aware of ESD and how to protect your computer from ESD.

Unplug all cables from the back of the computer and open the computer and reseat all expansion cards and memory in the computer. After all cards have been reseated make sure all cables are firmly connected by disconnecting and reconnecting all drive cables and fan cables. After everything has been disconnected and reconnected connect only the power cable to the back of the computer and try turning on the computer. If the computer turns on you can turn off the computer and reconnect all the cables. If, after following the above sections, your computer still receives no power, it is likely that a hardware component in the computer has failed. It is possible the power supply has failed. If you have a laptop or do not want to replace the power supply yourself, we suggest taking the computer to a repair center. If you have a desktop computer and plan on trying to repair the computer yourself open the computer and verify the power connections. You can verify the connection by disconnecting the main power cable and reconnecting the power cable to make sure it has not become loose.

Also, verify the power button cable is correctly connected to the motherboard. If the power supply connections look ok, but the computer still cannot turn on your computer has a bad component we recommend replacing the hardware in the following order.RV Electricity is the most confusing utility within your RV. will be at least 2 to 5 different ways things get charged, powered orThe picture below can be very intimidating. However, let’s break it down to systems and basics!Let’s talk first about the types of electricity you have at your disposal to use within your RV. purpose, let’s “assume” you are hooked up in a campground or RV Park - therefore, "shore power"We are also discussing only the “house” side of an RV, not the engine/chassis side of an RV!Below is a RV Electric Wiring Diagram or schematic including the converter and inverter for a generic RV. There are 2 main types of sources of RV electricity within your RV – 12 Volt DC and 120 Volt AC (same as 110 volt - just like your stick & brick, for our purposes).

The 12 volt DC electricity powers our necessary items; the 120 Volt AC powers more of the “luxuries” of an RV.12 volt DC powers things we must have available to us with minimal electrical effort – the water pump that pumps all your water from the fresh water tank to your sinks, showers and faucets; the hot air blower type propane furnaces are powered by 12 volts DC; refrigerators (except brand new style RV’s with the household type refrigerators - even moreare powered by 12 volts DC, reading and seeing lights within your RV are powered by 12 Volt DC. Most importantly, all your safety warning devices are powered by 12 Volt DC.Learn All About RV Batteries and Types of Batteries Here 120 Volt AC powers the “extras” that we all want – the TV, the roof AC unit(s), coffee maker, etc. - Anything that could be used in a stick & brick style home.Now, since your stick and brick house has only 120 Volt AC, we immediately know an RV is “different” - therefore, the RV Electricity systems within an RV should only be worked on by someone “qualified” to do so !

RV Parks and Campgrounds only supply 120 Volt AC. So, how do you get the 12 Volt DC?? We are still parked and hooked up to the campground “shore power”. Now, this RV Electricity will get even trickier! of the electricity coming into the RV is 120 Volt AC. While some of it is going to the outlets within your RV to power your coffee maker, TV, Computer and perhaps a roof AC unit, the rest of that 120 Volt AC is going to a very special box that “converts” those 120 Volts AC to 12The output of that “converter” is sent to your “house batteries” (and chassis batteries) to keep your batteries stored up and full of 12 Volts DC. All of the 12 Volt DC power for the water pump, furnace, refrigerator, etc. comes from the special “house batteries”. keep them full, charged and ready to supply 12 Volt DC power within your RV, the "converter" will be used to convert those shore power 120 Volts of AC to 12 Volt DC. OK, what if you’re parked without shore power to your RV – no 120 Volts AC coming into the RV at all!?!

How can I make coffee in the morning or use my computer – they are all operating from 120 Volts AC!?? your RV battery system is fully charged with 12 Volts DC, a different device will “invert” the battery power of 12 Volts DC to 120 Volts AC. Most RV’s of today will have a single “box” that does both convert and invert – all at the same time! The biggest problem with “inverting” DC to AC is it takes a lot of reserve power out of your batteries quickly, in order to make the inversion. Therefore, you’ll get coffee made, perhaps your computer running – but don’t expect a lot of toast also!! batteries are very good at storing 12 Volt DC, but not good at giving up a lot of power quickly to run all those appliances at 120 volts AC. help manage large and quick power drains, RV Manufacturers typically recommended “deep cycle” battery power that can “handle” that type of Some great advice from Xantrax - theLike most things, if you have all the facts,

you make great decisions! This will help you have ALL the facts. Article is provided through the courtesy of Before YOU Change Anything Electrical - MUST READ OK, we’re still parked without being hooked up to “shore power” (RVIf we run too many items too quickly, our batteries will be dead – then what!?! You really like your “spot” and don’t want to move – you have several options available to recharge your house batteries. are our first choice – they are so quiet! Since they get their source of regenerative power from the Sun, it needs to be a bright sunny day. Perhaps the panels on the roof need to be tilted to face directly to the sun for maximum power. If conditions are right, they can be so effective and quiet, while providing plenty of RV electricity. solar panels will ONLY resupply your 12 Volt DC Batteries. relying on only solar panel rejuvenation may be a problem. Depends on how much you “have to have” AC, etc.

However, they can be noisy and require pretty consistent wind – all the time, to be effective. They are much more difficult to set up and remove, but certainly a source of power for the batteries. are the most common source of resupplying power for your batteries. Generators produce 120 Volts AC, therefore are very popular and effective – they are just like being hooked up to shore power – exceptAs a last resort, you can start your RV with the “other” unused battery source – the chassis batteries and then your engine’s Alternator will recharge your batteries! should be done as a last resort though – it makes your engine's alternator really work hard, creating heat within itself, therefore damaging your long term usefulness of that alternator! One last device that needs mentioning is an “Energy Management System”. These systems are designed to protect the wiring, circuits, appliances, etc of a RV if there is a lightening strike or a campground pedestal