Installed inside your home, evaporator coils are an essential part of any air conditioning or heat pump system. So when you need a new outdoor unit, Payne® always recommends replacing the indoor coil as well to achieve maximum efficiency and performance. Our full line of evaporator coils provide all of the options and configurations your dealer needs to make a perfect match. And no matter which one works for you, you'll enjoy years of rugged durability, thanks to corrosion-resistant aluminum construction.Cleaning condenser coils on your outdoor AC unit will not only help the unit cool more efficiently, but it will also cut down on the power consumption of your AC.  It is important to clean the coils early in the year, before the AC unit is needed for the summer.The outdoor condenser coil of your air conditioner performs a tough job in warm weather. It takes the concentrated heat collected from your home and dumps it into the hot outdoor air. To get rid of the collected heat, your outdoor condenser coil has to move a lot of air.

If the coil is dirty or if plants or other objects are too close to the conditioner unit, the fan in the outdoor coil can’t move as much air as required for good performance and efficiency. This raises your electricity cost for air conditioning and may shorten the life of the outdoor condensing unit.Around the outdoor condensing unit of the air conditioner, remove plants and other debris from within 3 feet of the unit in all directions.Make sure the air’s upward path from the unit is unrestricted for at least 5 feet.If your outdoor unit is installed under a deck or if someone built a trellis or some other structure above it, either move that structure or hire an air-conditioning contractor to move the outdoor unit.Most condenser coils are loaded with pollen and dust even when you can’t see it.  If your cooling season is 4 months or more, annual cleaning is an excellent idea. Do not wait longer than 2 years before cleaning condenser coils, and if your summers are long, cleaning more than once a year may be necessary.

Simply restore the power to your AC unit and you’ll have a much smoother running air conditioner.If you find that there are too many bent fins, or if the AC unit is extremely dirty, you should call a local professional to service and clean it. For more information on air conditioning see The Homeowners Handbook to Energy Efficiency. Or, for specific information about servicing air conditioners for energy efficiency, see Saturn Hydronic Systems Field Guide.You'll need five tools to clean the evaporator coils on your AC unit: a screwdriver, a stiff brush, a large hand mirror, household bleach and wire. Once you have these tools, make sure you know where the evaporator coils are located. You'll find the evaporator for a central air system located directly above the furnace in the plenum (main duct). Your AC unit may have a plenum that is sealed shut. If so, don't try to open it; it means you don't have an AC unit you can clean yourself. Assuming you can open your AC unit's plenum, the first thing you want to do is remove the foil-wrapped insulation at the front of the plenum.

This insulation is likely taped in place, so remove this tape carefully. You will have to put it all back. Behind the insulation is an access plate. Take your screwdriver and remove the screws holding the plate in place. Once the screws are out, remove the access plate. How to Remove Glue Spots How to Remove Contact Cement Spots How to Remove Dirt and Mud Stainsac unit for grow room Now you should see the evaporator itself. ac consumption unit per hourSome can be slid out a bit, even if they have rigid pipes, but be careful as you do so. introduction to air handling unitUse the stiff brush and hand mirror to clean out the underside of the evaporator unit. You'll also want to clean out the tray that sits below the evaporator.

The tray is there to carry away condensation from the evaporator. Take one tablespoon of bleach and pour into the weep hole to prevent fungus growth. If the tray has a lot of moisture, it could be due to a blockage in the drain line that connects the weep hole to the tray. If that's the case, you can open up the drain line by pushing a wire through it. Once the cleaning has been done, push the evaporator back into place if you've moved it and screw in the access plate. Then you need to re-tape the insulation back over the plenum. This is our first summer in a new house which has central air. It was a bit hotter today than normal so the AC was running for a long time. After awhile we noticed the airflow stopped because the cooling coil completely iced over (about 1/4" of snow over the whole thing). Bits of the suction line, including where the suction lines meets the outside unit, where also iced over. We opened up a couple registers which we had closed for the winter, and fixed a blockage of our largest return vent.

The system seems to be working better now, its been on for hours and is still working. However I have noticed that the bottom inch of so of the A shaped coil is frosted over as are most of the loops on the sides. Is it alright to have some frosting of the cooling coil or should it be completely clear at all times? The suction line (the larger pipe) should never be iced up during normal operation. By the time the refrigerant gets to the end of the evaporator coil, it should be completely boiled off (in a gas state). The bottom few coils may frost up, but the top ones should only be sweating at most. If the suction line; or more than the bottom third of the coil, is frosted up. You either have an overcharged system, or you're not getting enough air flow over the coils. Make sure all registers and returns are open, and unobstructed. Check all filters, to make sure they're clean. If you have a multi-speed blower, make sure it's set to run at the proper speed. And make sure it's actually running at, or near the speed it's supposed to be running at.

If none of that helps, have an HVAC technician check the refrigerant level. Temperature and pressure are the same thing in a refrigeration system, so based on the pressures shown above you can easily determine the temperature of the refrigerant . Assuming this is an R22 system, you'll see that the refrigerant enters the evaporator at 26°F, and leaves above freezing at 43°F. The suction line in this system is above freezing, so no icing will take place. The temperature may be below the dew point, so there may be sweating (condensation). Not enough air flow In this example you can see that the refrigerant enters the evaporator at 26°F, but it leaves the evaporator below freezing at 31°F. Since the suction line in this case is below freezing, there may be frosting/icing of the line. If the temperature of the line stays below freezing all the way back to the compressor, you'll see icing all the way along the line. In this case, there's not enough air flowing through the evaporator.