When you need emergency A/C service, we're committed to getting your air conditioner fixed immediately, and making sure the work is done right - the first time. Our certified emergency HVAC technicians will provide you with fast, reliable emergency air conditioning repairs 7 days a week, even on weekends and holidays. All of our air conditioning repair services are provided at a fixed-price based on the type of repair necessary. You'll know the total cost of the repair in advance with no surprises - regardless of how long it takes for us to complete the repair and get your A/C back upand running. Paying more then someone else for the same repair Technicians suggesting repairs that aren't necessary Or, click here to schedule your air conditioning repair service online now. All air conditioning repairs are backed by our 100% Satisfaction Guarantee No Extra Charges For Emergency Repairs. We don't increase repair pricing for after-hours emergencies. Fixed-Pricing For All Repairs.

No hidden or unexpected charges. Repairs Are 100% Guaranteed. Fast & Reliable Emergency A/C Service. Even on weekends and holidays. Certified A/C Repair Technicians. Experienced professionals with verified backgrounds. Repairs On All Brands & Models Of Air Conditioners. If your outside unit (condenser) won't turn on, but the fan inside your home seems to be working, check the thermostat to make sure it's working properly. Lower the thermostat by 5 degrees and see if the outside unit turns on. A faulty thermostat can prevent your entire air conditioning system from functioning. If the thermostat doesn't seem to be the issue, check the circuit breaker for your outside A/C unit. If the breaker has been tripped, gently push the switch all the way off, and then you can reset the breaker. If you reset the breaker and it trips again, call a professional to diagnose the problem. Plants, tall grass, or other vegetation around your outside A/C unit can also cause the air conditioner to stop functioning.

Leaves, grass, and other types of debris can be sucked into the vents of your unit, and cause damage to the capacitor. Call for professional service if you believe this is a possibility. If you still have air flowing through the vents, but the air isn't cold, your air conditioning system could be low on refrigerant, or you could have a stalled coil. The coil is the component that produces the cold air in your air conditioning system. The condenser fan will continue to run even if the coil isn't functioning properly, and that's why you might feel warm air flowing out of the vents. The most common cause of warm air coming out of the vents is low refrigerant in the system. You'll want to call for professional service for any problems with refrigerant or the coil in your air conditioning system. If you hear loud noise, squealing, or vibration coming from your air conditioner, turn the unit off and have a professional HVAC technician inspect the system. Excessive noise can be the result of improper installation, or belt-driven motors in older A/C units.

When your A/C continually turns off and on, this is called 'short-cycling' and it's a fairly common problem. There are several potential issues that can cause your air conditioner to short-cycle. One potential cause is a problem with the compressor which is sometimes referred to as your 'outside unit'. Your compressor is a 'sealed' component, which protects the moving parts inside from being damaged by dust and debris. capacitor on ac circuitYour A/C system will shut down frequently if the compressor is overheating or not functioning properly.ac unit in a tent Another potential cause of short cycling is low refrigerant levels in the system.hvac units installation Frozen coils can also cause short cycling of your air conditioning system. The coil cools the warm air that is drawn from inside your home through the ductwork.

Airflow problems are often cause of frozen coils, which leads to the short cycling issue. If your air conditioning system is turning on and off frequently, have one of our professional HVAC technicians inspect your system for needed repairs. Or, click here to schedule your air conditioning repair service online now.Are you an equipment owner with a question about air conditioning troubleshooting? page has some guidance that might help you get your air conditioner running. If you're working on a Trane unit, our page about troubleshooting Trane air conditioning controls has some tips about Trane's microprocessor controls that you might find useful. Are you a technician doing some air conditioning troubleshooting on a totally dead unit? Is it a nice hot summer day? Are your shoe soles already gummy from a previous service call on somebody's unit on a tar-paper roof? Did you just finish a service call 20 minutes ago where you were sweating buckets wriggling around in somebody's steam-kettle attic?

If you're done with your diet soda; grab your tools, crank up the can-do attitude, and let's go troubleshoot this air conditioner. This unit's acting dead, so check the breaker, check the disconnect and fuses, and check to make sure you have correct power supplied to the unit. If the breaker is tripped and/or a fuse is blown, check the unit for grounds or shorts. Disconnect the leads from the terminals and check for grounded, shorted, or open windings. Check the evaporator and condenser fan motors for grounded or shorted windings. Check the control and power circuits for shorts or grounds. If your air conditioning troubleshooting call is for a unit that has good supply voltage but is otherwise dead: If your supply power checks out ok, make sure the thermostat is turned on, that there is control power to it, and verify that it actually works. If there's control power to the thermostat and it works, make sure the wires to the evap fan relay and condensing unit aren't broken at the thermostat, or somewhere between the thermostat and the

Air conditioning troubleshooting when the evaporator fan won't run.Check for power at the evap fan relay.If it gets power but the contacts don't close, it has failed.If it gets power and the contacts close, but the fan doesn't run,Check for voltage on the load side of the relay, check the leads to the fan, test the fan windings and the capacitor, and check to see if something is stuck in the blower and stopping it from turning. Air conditioning troubleshooting when the Verify the cooling control signal from the thermostat. Check for refrigerant pressure. If the refrigerant has leaked, the low pressure safety will open and the unit will not run. If the oil safety switch has tripped, check the oil level. It will also trip if the contactor closes but the compressor doesn't run for some reason, So check for open compressor windings, verify that the compressor terminal connections and contactor connections are tight, and verify that there is actually good voltage at the compressor when the contactor pulls in.

If the high pressure safety is open, check your pressures. If head pressure has dropped below the cut in point of the safety, and it is an automatic reset type, the safety has failed. If the safety is a manual reset type, push the button and see if it will reset. Check the voltage monitor if there is one. If your voltage is within range of the setting, the safety contacts should be closed. If they're not, the monitor has failed. If there is a delay timer, check accross the control terminals. If the delay timer contacts never close, it has failed. If the safety contacts are closed, you should have control power at your contactor. If there is no control power at the contactor coil, check for a broken wire somewhere. If you have control power at the contactor coil but the contactor doesn't pull in, the contactor has failed. page for contactor troubleshooting tips. If you're on an air conditioning troubleshooting call where the contactor pulls in but the compressor doesn't run, check for open compressor windings, verify that the compressor terminal connections and contactor connections are tight, and verify that there is actually good voltage at the compressor when the contactor pulls in.

If it's a single phase compressor, check the start relay and the capacitors. The best way to test the start relay and capacitors is to replace them with new parts. If the condenser fan doesn't run, check the relay, motor windings and capacitor, and fan blade, the same way as with the evaporator fan. Be thorough as you trace down wiring and look for failed components, and always follow safety precautions during your air conditioning troubleshooting jobs. By the time you reach this point of air conditioning troubleshooting, you will have found the failed component and repaired or replaced it, and the unit will be ready to run. For a few more tips on condensing unit troubleshooting, and some unusual condensing unit problems I've run into, see our Troubleshoot Air Conditioning Condensing Unit Air conditioning troubleshooting on a unit that runs but doesn't seem to be cooling efficiently. Check the evaporator and condenser fans. Verify the motors are the correct horsepower, that they rotate in the proper direction and at the correct rpm.

Verify that the fan and blower blades are clean, that they're the correct size and pitch, and that they are turning in the right direction. Verify that the evaporator and condenser coils are clean and air flow is not blocked. Verify that the air filter is clean. Verify that the condenser is getting normal temperature outside air, and that another unit isn't blowing hot air into it. Verify that the evaporator supply and return ducting is not leaking; losing cold air or picking up warm outside air. At this point in this air conditioning troubleshooting job, attatch your gauges and check your pressures and temperatures. Before we get started though, in case you're interested, on our Air Conditioning Manifold Gauges page I discuss a couple of my favorite brands of manifold sets. With the unit off and pressures equalized, verify that the system contains the correct refrigerant. You can do this by taking the temperature of the evaporator coil.

It should match the pressure/temperature indication on your low side gauge or pressure/temperature chart. Run the unit and check operating pressures. When the space has cooled down and is about 5 degrees above design temperature, look for the following pressures and temperatures. Suction pressure should be in the range of 35 to 40 degrees below return air. Discharge pressure should be in the range of 20 to 35 degrees above ambient air. Superheat should be 20 to 30 degrees at the compressor. Subcooling should be 10 to 15 degrees at the outlet of the receiver or condenser. Air temperature rise through the condenser should be 20 to 30 degrees. Air temperature drop through the evaporator should be 15 to 20 degrees. If all of your operating characteristics fall within these ranges, the unit is running good. If you're interested in more air conditioning troubleshooting tips, you might want to take a look at our They have troubleshooting diagrams, and more detailed information about how to evaluate direct expansion and chilled water type air conditioning and refrigeration system operating characteristics.

At this stage of air conditioning troubleshooting, if there is still a concern about the unit not cooling properly, you will need to do a capacity check.Measure the air flow in CFM through the evaporator.Measure the wet bulb temperatures of the air entering and leaving the evaporator.Using a psychrometric chart or an enthalpy conversion table, convert the wet bulb temperatures to enthalpy values, and calculate the difference between the two values.Multiply the difference in enthalpy values times 4.5, which is a constant used in this calculation, and then multiply that product times the CFM.This will tell you how many btu of heat the evaporator is absorbing from the air flowing through it.Yes, air conditioning troubleshooting often involves some mathematics. If the difference between design capacity and running capacity is minor, it can be adjusted by adjusting evaporator blower speed. If the unit is running at or near design capacity but still not handling the load of the space being cooled, the unit is simply too small.