Mitsubishi MSY/MUY-GE15NA Indoor/Outdoor Up to 21 SEER, 15k BTU A/C System 2.4 out of 5 stars #2,309,270 in Home and Kitchen (See Top 100 in Home and Kitchen) #487 in Home & Kitchen > Heating, Cooling & Air Quality > Air Conditioners & Accessories > Air Conditioners > Window See all 14 customer reviews See all 14 customer reviews (newest first) We have had two of these systems installed by a Mitsubishi Licensed AC Contractor. The first one failed after 4 years time but because we live close to the ocean it voids any... Absolutely DO NOT BUY a Mitsubishi mini-split system. I have owned one for 6 years now and it is the worst purchase I have ever made--by a long shot. Less than 6 months old, 20 year HVAC vet installing. Refrigerant flow is noisy like a bad set of brake pads on a car. I have read all of these reviews and I am not the least bit surprised at the "bad experiences" a lot of people have. We have one at work in the guard house.

I've only been here close to a year but we have only had one problem out of it. The coolant froze up in the lines. We enjoy the units we have but can say without a doubt, they are NOT designed for heating. Electric bill for the month of December in Palm Springs was over $400 for heating, but... Purchased this for a 12 x 12 computer room at work. Works like a champ. Have two exactly like this at two other locations. All 4 years old and running strong! This thing is a piece of junk. I installed it to keep a 10x12 insulated room cool and it couldn't do that, even when the separate home A/C unit was also pumping cool air into the... I have 3 Mitsubishi splits in my house and all of them work great. They have been installed for 2 years. The outdoor unit does get louder in the winter...if the contractor knew anything..he'd know that when one board fails you change all 3.. See and discover other items: slim window air conditioner, indoor heater/air conditioner I have a Cape Cod with 1000 ft2 on the first floor and an apartment in the attic.

In a few years I may get rid of the apartment and build up a second story + attic. Both the first floor and the attic currently have window AC units. small bedroom ac unitThe heat is hot water radiators and the boiler is on gas.how to size wire for ac unit Does it make sense to install high-velocity AC in the crawl space for the first floor and later, when I build up the second floor, add another AC system in the new attic to cool it?cost of 3 ton ac system Or is that going to be too expensive? I'm thinking that a dual zone system would be nice anyway. Are two AC systems twice as expensive than a single dual-zone one? Or what is the ratio? Also, what are the prices of such systems? A dual-zone system is one heating element and/or AC coil serving two separate ductwork segments.

The extra cost of a dual-zone system as opposed to a single-zone system is in the dual-zone temperature monitoring/control panels, and a system-controlled diverter that sends the air to the side of the system that needs it (or both). One interior and one exterior unit to buy/maintain. Drastically reduces most routine maintenance costs and generally increases MTBF. Easier to balance your home's ventilation; you don't have to worry about the relative heating/cooling capacity of two units versus the space they're expected to cover. Dual-zone systems usually have a "master/slave" control panel arrangement allowing the "master" panel to control both zones while the "slave" panel can either also control both or only control the secondary zone, possibly with additional restrictions like max/min temperature that can be set on the master panel.if something on the one unit goes, there is no heated/cooled air anywhere in your home. Impossible to differentiate the electric costs of you versus an upstairs tenant.

Longer ventilation runs to the second zone, depending on home design; the second zone needs vents and returns run from the main unit to a usually distant part of the home. These longer runs will not be as efficient. To supply ample heated/cooled air to both zones at once, the unit must usually be a bit beefier than a comparable single-zone system, to compensate for inefficiencies and maintain desired airflow when both zones are being ventilated. You cannot have the heat on in one zone and the A/C on in another. The entire system must be set to heat or cooling, meaning if your tenant likes it substantially warmer or cooler than you do, the ability of the system to provide the proper temperatures can be limited at times. A dual-unit system will have two separate single-zone HVAC units each controlling one area of the home (upstairs-downstairs is common in new construction, as is having a second HVAC for a new addition). Having a backup system means at least some of your house can still be heated or cooled in the event of a failure of one unit.

Vent runs can usually be shorter, as the units can be strategically placed in new construction for the most efficient ductwork layout to each zone. Each unit can be smaller than a single unit for the whole house would have to be, meaning the exterior units can be located in tight spaces or more easily hidden behind shrubs. By hooking the second HVAC along with all upstairs circuits to a sub-meter, you can easily determine (and sever) the electrical costs of an income property. More expensive to put in than a single unit, even a dual-zone. Two 1-ton units will cost more than a 2-ton. Maintenance costs also increase; with two units the MTBF of a single unit in the home is halved, meaning on average you'll have to call the repair guy twice as often.There are some nice thermostats that can communicate wirelessly (usually as part of a whole-house automation/alarm system), but basically each unit will be its own completely separate system and to balance the temperature in the whole house you must go upstairs and down to fiddle with settings.